Grist on the Hazards of Conventional Cosmetics

>From <www.gristmagazine.com> 5/24/'04

Dear Umbra,

I haven't been reading Grist for very long, so excuse me if you've already
addressed this topic, but what are the environmental impacts of using
cosmetics such as lipstick, eyeliner, mascara, eye shadow, and especially
nail polish? Since becoming an environmentally conscious consumer, I have
purchased cruelty-free products, but I have only recently begun to consider
the environmental impact of the packaging and the products themselves. Are
there products that are "all natural" and do not pose a threat to the
environment? Where do all these chemicals in makeup come from (again,
especially nail polish!) and what happens to them when they are tossed in
the garbage (since most of the packaging is not recyclable)?

Celest
Parkville, Md.

Dearest Celest,

I have never addressed this topic, but thanks for checking. You can easily
investigate the staleness of any question by scrolling to the bottom of this
page, clicking "Archives," clicking "Ask Umbra," and then skimming through
the list of issues addressed in past columns.

Hiss and makeup.
Discarded cosmetics and their fellow garbage are either consumed by burning,
burning incinerator love or shmooshed in the landfill sandwich. The sundry
ingredients of said cosmetics, when reduced to heat or ooze, may escape into
the surrounding air, land, and water and attack the natural world with their
potentially noxious properties (more on those below). The likelihood of
escape depends on the security of the landfill (its lining, seals, and caps)
or of the incinerator (its filters, scrubbers, and converters).

We beauty queens have little control over the afterlife of our cosmetics, so
it is the consumption end that must absorb us. Unfortunately, inane and
unnecessary packaging comes with the territory. Quite a variety of "natural"
cosmetics grace the shelves of my food co-op, but none are available in bulk
and I can't see economy-size lipstick arriving any time soon. Some bright
spots: Refills are par for the course with eye shadow, MAC cosmetics accepts
old makeup containers with a return-six-get-a-lipstick-free policy, eyeliner
can be used down to the nub, and mascara ... seems like the tube could just
be refilled at the local tar shop.

Now, as for what's in makeup: Most cosmetics include a fragrance
manufactured from volatile organic compounds, which can cause allergic
reactions and may damage the nervous system. Chemical solvents, which keep
substances liquid or help them dry quickly or make ingredients combine
easily, are likewise an important component of modern cosmetics and are
likewise to be avoided. And the manufacture of solvents and fragrances is
not just a problem for you -- it's also bad news for plant employees and the
waste stream. Less harmful cosmetics contain fewer solvents and VOCs, and
will tout said accomplishment on the packaging.

Spit and polish.
Nail polish is in a class by itself. There is no purely nontoxic nail
polish, although some brands claim the title by reducing the volatile
compounds and fragrances in the polish. Trouble is, you've got to get that
stuff off your nails somehow, and we all know that stinky, eye-irritating
acetone is the best solution. If you are willing to give up one beauty
product, make it nail polish. At least, paint your nails less frequently and
in a well-ventilated room, and stay away from the nail salon, where the
fumes mix with foot shavings in a frightening cocktail.

As for buying "natural" cosmetics, just be sure you read the fine print and
read between the lines. Shop for these beauty amenities at fine purveyors of
bleeding-heart, animal- and nature-loving products, and look for those
sometimes meaningless but occasionally helpful terms and phrases such as
"earth-friendly," "nontoxic," "no harmful fragrances," etc. Or search the
web using these terms and see what products turn up. (I am not going to
promote any particular brands here.)

The bottom line: Cosmetics are bad for your personal environment, although
their purported function is to improve said personal environment. And items
that are toxic to the user are frequently toxic to the maker -- and toxic to
the waste stream when you're done with them. Cut down on the toxics and
you'll be doing everyone upstream and downstream on the makeup river a
favor.

Prettily,
Umbra